The Palace - The Poudre Face
River Rats, 5.7 (sport lead)
Turtle Head, 5.9 (top rope)
Orange You Glad, 5.8 (top rope)
March 2010
With temperatures in the low sixties forecasted Jim and I decided to check out a new climbing area (new to us). We headed west up Poudre Canyon to a area called The Palace. For the most part the climbing here is difficult sport routes (5.10 - 5.12) but I was able to identify 3 moderates that should give us a feel for the area.
We crossed the Poudre River at a sketchy iced up crossing and made out way up to the face. The approach took about 10 minutes total.
Wes Leads River Rats (5.7)
Jim Leads River Rats (5.7)
Wes Top Ropes Turtle Head (5.9)
Jim Top Ropes Orange You Glad (5.8+)
I took the first lead on River Rats (5.7) and took my time but I felt like I climbed it in pretty good style. After that Jim took his turn on lead for River Rats (5.7). Then we each took a lap on Turtle Head which the guide has a 5.7 but was considerably more difficult than the route we had just climbed. Jim and I agreed that it was more like a 5.9 than a 5.7. After that we elected not to try and lead the third moderate, Orange You Glad (5.8+) and we’re glad we didn’t. Thought well bolted Orange You Glad’s rock was suspect and it was very dirty. After that we called it a day.
I was a little disappointed in this area. I had high hopes for Poudre climbing but it appears that the rock is very similar to the rock in the Big Thompson Canyon (not good). However, I am not writing the whole canyon off just yet as Jim and I have already made plans the climb Grey Rock in the next couple of weeks.
River Rats (5.7)Topo
Orange You Glad (5.8+) Topo