Mount Lady Washington
Mount Lady Washington
For the last day in May EJ and I decided to check out a technical route on Mt. Lady Washington called Martha. We had read recent reports that the climb was “out” but decided to give it a shot anyway. I left home at 2:30 A.M. and arrived at the Long’s Peak Trailhead at 3:45 A.M. We were on the trail by 4 A.M. and made good time to the base of the route arriving at 6:15 A.M. While getting ready for our ascent we noticed several parties in the Chasm Cirque (we counted at least 10 individuals) taking advantage of the stellar climbing conditions on the Dreamweaver, the Loft, the Notch Couloir and the Flying Dutchman. We geared up and I took the first lead which ended above the first mixed step. EJ took the next lead which consisted of a 50 degree snow slope in a narrowing couloir. On the third pitch we had to do a bit simu-climbing to reach the second rock/ice step. EJ lead the forth pitch which required some tricky M0 climbing on wet rock and rotting ice. I lead the fifth pitch (M1) which proved to be the crux of the route. The crux was approximately 20’ high and required some interesting (and ugly) climbing moves on wet rock and rotting ice. After the crux pitch EJ and I each took turns leading pitches on the snow field above the difficulties to continue to work on our rope management skills. After topping out on the couloir we elected to skip the summit and trended east to Mount Lady Washington’s standard route. We made good time back to the trailhead and made the roundtrip ascent in 11 hours. This is an amazing route that I’d like to repeat in better conditions. Both EJ and I agree that Martha is officially “out” and climbing while in it’s present condition is not suggested.
Martha Couloir
WI 2+, M1 (5.6) Grade III
May 2009