Day 1 & 2: Durango - Silverton Narrow Gauge & Approach to Vestal Basin 

Day one EJ an I drove to Durango and overnighted.The next day we took the 8:30 A.M. train to Elk Park and began the 6 miles approach to our camp in the Vestal Basin at 11,400 feet. We had questionable weather for the approach and ended up getting rained on right after arriving a little after 3 P.M.

Day 6: Taos & Wheeler Peak

After leaving Durango in the late morning EJ and I made it to Taos and grabbed some lunch. We were greeted with questionable weather again but nevertheless we elected to climb Wheeler Peak via the standard route. A new trail was created on Wheeler Peak in June 2011 and we were fortunate enough to follow the excellent trail to summit in a little less than 2 hours. We made our way down the peak under threatening skies and overnighted in the Whiten Inn in Taos.

Day 4: Vestal Peak Attempt #2

We got an even earlier for our second attempt at the Wham Ridge and at first it appeared the weather may holdout. We ascended to the same level we did the prior day and began the center shift route (5.6). EJ lead two technical pitches up the center of the face until the clouds descended and we were forced to retreat. I lead two descending pitches to the highpoint from yesterday where we again headed to the bench at 12,400 feet in hopes that the weather would improve. The weather didn't improve and we headed back to our camp. We were disappointed Vestal was not in the cards this trip but we both agreed that we would come back to the basin in the next couple of years to give it another shot. 

Day 3: Vestal Peak Attempt #1 & Arrow Peak

Knowing there was a 60% chance of showers for the day we got an early start towards the summit of Vestal Peak's Wham Ridge (5.4). We made good progress towards the base of the technical climbing but were stopped upon arriving at the Wham Ridge by suspicious clouds. Given the committing nature of the climb and the prospect of climbing wet technical terrain we elected to descent to a rock bench at 12,400 feet and wait to see if the weather cleared. Unfortunately the weather didn't shows signs of improving so we elected to give Arrow Peak a shot via the Class 3 standard route. We dropped our technical climbing gear at the bench and ran up the less committing North Face route. We ascended wet rock to the summit of Arrow and while descending we got hailed on. We headed back to camp and planned on taking another crack at the Wham the following day.

Day 8: Ellingwood Arete

Our goal for the day was the Ellingwood Arete which is one of the "50 Classic Climbs of North America" and was originally climbed in 1927. This route is considered by many to be the finest mountaineering route in Colorado and after our successful climb I have to agree. We left the comfort of our camp at 5:30 A.M. and made great time to the arete where the technical climbing began. We started the technical climbing with two pitches of low fifth class to a headwall where three pitches of difficult climbing began. EJ lead two 5.5 pitches to the base of the crux 5.7 pitch which proved to be stout for the rating. During all of the technical pitches we encountered route finding difficulties but ultimately found the correct line. We summited the Crestone Needle at 2:00 P.M. and immediately headed down the Needles standard route in rain and hail. From camp to camp our climb took 11 hours. 

Day 5: Descent from Vestal Basin & Durango - Silverton Narrow Gauge

We descended the 6 miles back to the train tracks and hopped on the 11:30 A.M. train to Silverton. We grabbed some lunch in Silverton and took the bus back to Durango. We overnighted in Durango again and spent a couple hours discussion our climbing options in the San Juan's. With a 60% chance of precipitation in all of the areas that we wanted to climb in we elected to head to Taos, NM to climb that states highpoint, Mount Wheeler.

Day 7: South Colony Approach

After sleeping in a bit we headed towards the Crestones west of Pueblo, Colorado. We took a 4X4 road to the newly constructed Crestone Peaks Trailhead.and made our 3.5 mile approach to 11,600 feet where we made camp and prepared our gear for the following days ascent of the Ellingwood Arete.

Day 9: South Colony Descent & Back to Denver

After a successful climb if the Arete we packed up camp and headed back to Denver for a couple of hours of rest before tackling another technical route on Long's Peak.

Day 10: Long's Peak's North Face

Knowing my days in Colorado would be limited this year EJ and I elected to take advantage of the good weather forecasted along the front range to climb the North Face of Long's Peak (5.4). We left my parents house at 2:00 A.M. and left the packed trailhead at 3:30 A.M. We made steady progress up the familiar trail that to Chasm View on the edge of Long's Peak Diamond. Long's Peaks Diamond is a near vertical 1,000 foot wall with hundreds of routes in the 5.10+ range and the view from Chasm View was breathtaking. I lead the 5.4 pitch up an icy chimney without incident and from the top of the pitch we quickly scrambled to the summit of Long's Peak (my 14th summit). We stayed on top and enjoyed the view for 20 minutes then trudged back down to the trailhead for an nine hour round trip time (pretty good for us). We grabbed a burger and beer at the Darkhorse in Boulder and made our way back to Denver.